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Previous Newsletters
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| Monday, July 26, 2010 - NCPOS Newsletter, Aug 2010 |
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Dear NCPOS Members and Friends,
We invite you to join us on Sunday August 1st for our monthly meeting. Our guest speaker is Carl Tilson, and his talk will be about hardnative orchids. As usual, lunch is at noon and the meeting starts at 1PM.
Carl Tilson is a graduate of the University of South Carolina and has been growing orchids as a hobby since 1990. His undergraduate degree in biology included several botany classes that ultimately influenced his interest in native orchids. In the many years since graduating he has collected many hardy native orchid plants and attempted to propagate them from seed and division. He has tried many species and hybrids and learned orchid horticulture from the experience. Currently he is finishing his Masters Degree in Biology at Clemson University while teaching biology and human anatomy and physiology at Dutch Fork High School in Lexington SC.
Over the years Carl has grown and propagated many species and hybrids including species from the following genera: Cypripedium, Calanthe, Calopogon, Bletilla, Bletia, Habenaria, Galeris, Orchis, Platanthera, Spiranthes, and many others. His current work has focused on inter-generic hybrids with hardy terrestrial orchids. Growing hardy terrestrial orchids is now a possibility for both the devoted gardener and the well informed novice. Many species fit superbly in our climate and do well with little or no care once established.
Carl will present the first of his two part introductory presentations on hardy orchids in the garden and offer some plants for sale to help your hobby take off.
Notice on parking for the August meeting!!
Some ROADS on campus are being repaired and may NOT be completed by Aug. 1, and you cannot get to the Greenhouse the usual way as Mary Alexander is all torn up.Folks should come in the front entrance to campus off NC 49, go straight through the traffic circle, then follow the yellow “Greenhouse detour” signs to get here.
DIRECTIONS: Go thru the traffic circle for one block, turn left; go 2 blocks to stop light, turn right onto Cameron. Go 2 blocks to Craver Rd, turn right. That will bring you up to the greenhouse.
If you come in off I-85 (exit 46) and come to campus on Mary Alexander Rd., you will have to turn right onto Cameron at 4-way stop; then go to Craver and turn left. FOLLOW THE YELLOW SIGNS.
If you try to come in off Mallard Creek Church Rd, off the Interstate, or off John Kirk Rd., you will not get here.
One can also come in the South Entrance off NC 49 before the Main Entrance. That is Cameron and will bring you around to Craver Rd where you turn right to get to Greenhouse. FOLLOW THE YELLOW SIGNS.
The gate should be up as usual.
Hope to see you there.
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Upcoming Events
Sun. Aug 1. NCPOS Monthly Meeting at UNCC Greenhouse. Lunch at noon, meeting at 1pm. Speaker is Carl Tilson on native orchids.
September 11 at noon. NCPOS Annual Auction, held at Carolina Orchids.
Sun. Oct 3. NCPOS Monthly Meeting at UNCC Greenhouse. Lunch at noon, meeting at 1pm. Speaker is George Hatfield on Cymbidiums.
Sun. Nov 7. NCPOS Monthly Meeting at UNCC Greenhouse. Lunch at noon, meeting at 1pm. Speaker TBA.
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Quick Links
If you would like to donate plants for the September auction, please give Jay a list of your donations by August 20th.
2010 dues are now being excepted. Please provide a check or cash to Bill Jolly at the next meeting. Membership is $15 for adults and $20 for families.
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GROWING TIPS
For
August
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
Repotting should be done by now, but keep an eye on those oddball species that like to grow roots as they flower. Many bifoliate cattleyas need to be repotted just as they come into flower. Some like C bicolor with 3 foot pseudobulbs are particularly frustrating since buds emerge about the same time as new roots. It is not unusual to see this same characteristic in their offspring.
Insects are cold-blooded, which means they grow faster when greenhouse temperatures are warm. This is true for both scale insects and mobile pests such as roaches. Roaches, mealybugs, and other mobile animals that live in pots can reduce all your carefully protected root tips to little white nubs. Unfortunately, this mostly happens at night so there is always some uncertainty as to the identity of the offending culprit. If you are a night owl, a quiet visit with your flashlight to your growing area at night may get you a quick view of the culprit. If you are having this problem, mix up a 5 gallon bucket of liquid Sevin, 1 teaspoon per gallon and dip the entire orchid pot for a minute or two and see what comes out. Roaches will make themselves known, but many smaller animals such as snails & slugs will just die in the pot. Either way, problem solved. For hobbyists who place their orchids outdoors in summer and bring them inside in winter, remember this treatment to avoid importing pests.
There are a few orchids in my collection that should love the heat of summer, but Angraecum hybrids and species often develop rots in their new leaves as they emerge. Keep a bottle of household hydrogen peroxide in the growing area. After you water, put a few drops in the crown of angraecums or any other monopodal orchid (phals, vandas, etc) that grow on a vertical stem and the rot problem will disappear.
Summer is a time of both heat and humidity. If you are growing outdoors don’t forget last month’s watering advice. Always keep in mind that cool weather will require a reduction in watering frequency. There is always the possibility here in the Southeast of a tropical system lasting for days. Tropical systems import fungal and bacterial spores. The heat and humidity that accompany these storms encourage their growth. These disease-causing organisms are always around and there is nothing that can be done.
If you grow outside and your orchids are naturally watered by the rain, it may be necessary to provide some shelter if several days of tropical rain is expected. In my greenhouse, I also spray down all surfaces under benches, on walls, etc with a strong anti-biotic. Copper Sulfate (Kocide) works well as can a solution of Clorox. However, these products can damage orchids if they get on leaves. If orchids are wet there is less danger or a less toxic product can also be used.
Kocide, used in a more dilute form is safe to use on some orchids, but only if the water you mix it with is on the basic side of the pH scale, i.e. above 7. Even then, there can be damage on tender new phal leaves as well as to other sensitive orchids. There are other products such as Phyton 27, approved for direct application to orchids. It is easier to prevent infections than cure them.
Once the tropical system has passed it is wise to treat your orchids with some type of anti-fungal or anti-bacterial agent. Some hobbyists that have small collections use the same hydrogen peroxide noted above, place it in a spray bottle and spray their plants. Remember to keep air moving around your orchids. Once the rain stops and humidity drops it is also a good idea to let your orchids dry thoroughly.
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News and Notes
The NCPOS annual auction will be a little different this year. The event will be held at Carolina Orchids in Ft. Mill, on Saturday, Sept 11, beginning at noon with lunch. It has been the consensus the last several years that the auction had too many plants and was too long. This was primarily due to many unexpected donations showing up at the last minute. This year, we will be purchasing several special and unique plants. We will be relying on you and other NCPOS members to donate plants for the rest of the auction. Please begin looking through your collection for good quality, healthy, pest-free plants that you would like to donate to our auction. If you would email a list of your donations to Jay at jaythefishguy@earthlink.net by August 20, it would be appreciated. This will give Jay enough time to compile and publish a list of plants. This should result in a shorter, more fun, and more financially feasible auction for the society. Thank you in advance for your participation!
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| | Wednesday, June 30, 2010 - July NCPOS E-newsletter |
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Dear NCPOS Members and Friends,
Please join us for our next event. In lieu of a regular July meeting which would fall on Sunday, July 4, we are having a Saturday,
July 3, picnic on the grounds of Woodland Orchids, 1816 Hart Rd.,
Charlotte, NC 28214. Rolf and Linda Wilhelm have been gracious enough
to volunteer as hosts for this event. In addition to enjoy each
other's company and mingling with English bulldogs and a pet turkey,
we'll enjoy perusing the greenhouses. Rolf and Linda have been known
for hybridizing oncidinae for years and have recently become involved
in hybridizing mini-cattleyas. Rolf also has an interest in growing
some outstanding stanhopeas as well as assorted other orchids.
This event will start at noon. Rolf and Linda will be furnishing
beverages. The NCPOS Board will be preparing grilled pork tenderloins
and chicken breasts. You are asked to bring a side dish or dessert.
Woodland Orchids is not hard to find. From Charlotte, go north on
Highway 16 (Brookshire Freeway), or, if coming from Gaston County,
take I-485. Just north of the 485 overpass on Brookshire, take a left
onto Mt. Holly/Huntersville Rd. Take a right onto Rozzelles Ferry Rd.,
then a left onto Hart Rd. Go 1.2 miles on Hart Rd; Woodland Orchids is
on the left. There's a small sign.
It will be a great time. Please come and join us!
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Upcoming Events
Sat. July 3. NCPOS picnic at Woodland Orchids in Charlotte.
Sun. Aug 1. NCPOS Monthly Meeting at UNCC Greenhouse. Lunch at noon, meeting at 1pm. Speaker is Carl Tilson on native orchids.
September 11 at noon. NCPOS Annual Auction, held at Carolina Orchids.
Sun. Oct 3. NCPOS Monthly Meeting at UNCC Greenhouse. Lunch at noon, meeting at 1pm. Speaker is George Hatfield on Cymbidiums.
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Quick Links
Notes
2010 dues are now being excepted. Please provide a check or cash to Bill Jolly at the next meeting. Membership is $15 for adults and $20 for families.
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Growing Tips by Courtney Hackney
How do I get my orchid to grow roots? This is one of the most asked questions because so many ...
new orchid growers start with the gift of a pot plant that, unfortunately, stays too long in the medium.
But even those of us who have grown orchids for many years can find individual clones or times when
an orchid just will not grow roots.
When the weather is warm most orchids will readily grow roots. There may be a few exceptions
to the rule, but even those will at least grow a few new roots this time of year.
In nature, most orchids grow new roots when the growth of new leaves begins. For orchids with
rhizomes, this usually happens when a new growth is maturing. For orchids that grow from a central
stem, e.g. phalaenopsis and vandas, new roots are associated with the onset of the rainy season or warm
weather. Thus, your orchids should be getting new roots right now.
There are some things that can prevent an orchid from growing roots, including insects and dis-
ease. If you have an orchid will not grow new roots, especially if it was just repotted, then some action
may be necessary to stimulate new root growth and save the orchid plant. An orchid without roots will
eventually die.
The first question to ask is whether the problem orchid is a species. If that is the case, then a
quick check with an appropriate book will tell you if there are special issues with respect to new roots
for that species. Many of the large bifoliate cattleyas, e.g. C leopoldii and C bicolor have specific times
when they grow roots. These should be repotted only when they are about to get new roots.
If your orchid is not a species or a species with no specific rooting issues then a check of the
plant is necessary. Are there currently live roots on the orchid? Are the leaves wilted or shriveled? If
there are many live roots, but leaves are shriveled then look for insect pests. Scale insects, mites, and
mealy bugs can all suck enough liquid from a plant that has good roots to cause desiccation of leaves.
You may need to take the orchid from the pot, look under leaves and even check the living roots. Don?t
be hesitant to use a magnifying glass because some of these “beasts” are tiny. If you just find one it is a
good bet there are more and this is the problem.
A fine jet of water can be used to remove scale from the leaves, under roots and even between
leaves. My preference is to follow this procedure several timers from different angles to be sure all are
removed. It only takes one to regenerate a whole new colony.
If most of the roots are dead then the issue is likely either disease or decaying medium. Using
the same fine water jet, wash the entire plant thoroughly and let it dry. If there are soft spots on the
rhizome or stem apply 2% Hydrogen Peroxide, the stuff you have in your medicine cabinet. After 15
minutes, soak the entire plant, not just the roots, in the recommended concentration of “Root Tone” or
similar hormonal stimulant. Some orchid books maintain that orchids do not respond to such a treat-
ment, but they will. Soak for 15 minutes and then let dry.
Next keep your orchid in a shady location. For me they go under the bench. Some growers
that have humidity issues will remove all dead tissues and place the plant in a clear plastic bag under the
bench until new roots appear. It is necessary to be sure no water accumulates in the bag. Once new
roots appear repot, but keep the orchid under lower light until there are enough roots to anchor the
plant in the pot. Then it can be slowly moved into its normal light regimen.
Getting vandas to grow roots can also be an issue. Members of the vanda group will occasion-
ally become very leggy and refuse to grow roots on the stem, resulting in large plants with leaves at the
top, roots at the bottom and a long stem in between. Find a long plastic window box that will hold the
root mass and as much of the stem as possible and soak in “Root Tone” for 30 minutes. Place back in its
normal location and wait. Typically, new roots will emerge from what looked like a dead stem. After
these roots get 2-3 inches long you can cut just below these new roots and repot the top portion.
Within a few weeks the lower part of the stem will sprout new leaves and you now have two plants.
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The Western North Carolina Orchid Society is excited to announce that Glenn Decker, famed for his work with Phragmidpedium kovachii will be joining us for our July Meeting on Sunday, July 11 in Asheville, NC. We are extending an invitation to other societies in the area to join us for this special event. For more information, contact Brett at wncosavl@gmail.com.
Francisco Miranda, the noted cattleya expert, will be speaking at the Carolinas Judging Center during their regular meeting on Saturday, July 17, at 9:30 a.m. Francisco will have cattleya species for sale. For more information see the Judging Center website, www.carolinasjudgingcenter.org. The next day, Francisco is scheduled to speak at the South Carolina Orchid Society meeting in Columbia. Contact Dr. Tom Nasser or Shan Nasser for more information regarding this.
At the June meeting, Jay announced that he was taking a long anticipated hiatus from installing NCPOS exhibits at orchid shows in 2011. If you would be interested in helping the society in this capacity, please contact Jay or Shan.
The June Show Table results are as follows: 1st place: Blc. Tatarown, 2nd place: Vanda Robert's Delight, 3rd place: Den. hercoglossum. All plants were grown by Jay Sifford.
The NCPOS annual auction will be a little different this year. The event will be held at Carolina Orchids in Ft. Mill, on Saturday, Sept 11, beginning at noon with lunch. It has been the consensus the last several years that the auction had too many plants and was too long. This was primarily due to many unexpected donations showing up at the last minute. This year, we will be purchasing several special and unique plants. We will be relying on you and other NCPOS members to donate plants for the rest of the auction. Please begin looking through your collection for good quality, healthy, pest-free plants that you would like to donate to our auction. If you would email a list of your donations to Jay at jaythefishguy@earthlink.net by August 20, it would be appreciated. This will give Jay enough time to compile and publish a list of plants. This should result in a shorter, more fun, and more financially feasible auction for the society. Thank you in advance for your participation!
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| | Tuesday, December 01, 2009 - NCPOS December 2009 Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #12-03 |
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December 1 , 2009
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Dear NCPOS Members, Future Members, and Supporters,
Come join us for our annual NCPOS Christmas Party on Sunday, Dec. 6, beginning at noon. PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS WILL TAKE THE PLACE OF OUR MONTHLY MEETING AT UNCC. The society will provide the main course. Members are asked to bring a side dish or dessert. Guests are asked only to come and enjoy yourselves.
This year's festivities will be held at Carolina Orchids, hosted by Tom and Shan Nasser.
Carolina Orchids from Charlotte, NC: South on I-77 to exit 90. R on Carowinds Blvd. Go 0.7 miles to stoplight in front of Carowinds roller coasters. Turn left on Pleasant Road.Go 1.4 miles to Carolina Orchids on right (just past entrance to Catawba Village townhouses). If get to Beacon Knoll subdivision on your left, you went 200 feet too far.
Carolina Orchids from Columbia, SC: North on I-77 to exit 88. Turn left on Gold Hill Rd. Go 0.3 miles to 2nd stoplight; turn right on Pleasant Rd. Go 1.4 miles to Carolina Orchids on left (after Beacon Knoll subdiv.on right.)
Carolina Orchids from Greenville, SC: North on I-85 toward Charlotte. Exit on I-485 (toward Columbia)then I-77S. At I-77 Exit 90 turn right on Carowinds Blvd. & follow above instructions to us from Charlotte, NC.
Upcoming News and Notes
1/15/10 – 1/17/10 NCPOS Show at Daniel Stowe Botanical Gardens
2/7/10- Regular NCPOS Meeting at the UNCC Greenhouse
3/3/10 – 3/7/10- NCPOS Exhibit at the Annual Southern Home and Garden Show
3/7/10- Regular NCPOS Meeting at the UNCC Greenhouse
4/10/10 or 4/11/10- April NCPOS Fieldtrip to Marble Branch Farms
Friend the NCPOS on Facebook
www.facebook.com/pages/NC-Piedmont-Orchid-Society/199428621538
And on Twitter.com
@NCPOS
And on Flickr
http://www.flickr.com/groups/ncpos/
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
There will be no regular January meeting.
NCPOS Orchid Show "Orchids in the Trees"Jan 15-17 at Daniel Stowe Botanical Gardens
Orchid Jewelry trunk show featuring jewelry by Dawn Vertrees, will be held at the Red Sky Gallery on East Blvd on Dec 4 and 5. See www.dawnvertrees.com for details.
If you are not already a paid member of the NCPOS, we would love to have you join us! Membership dues are $15 for singles, $20 for families. Come be a part of our family.
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GROWING TIPS for December
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
This month includes the shortest day of the year and a time when the sun is at its lowest angle. Even here in Florida, the shade cloth is totally off my greenhouse and has been for two months.
For the past month or so some rearranging of orchids was necessary to maximize growth and avoid potential leaf burn. Jewel Orchids were moved into corners previously occupied by phals and other lower light-loving orchids because this area had become very shady. Jewel Orchid’s leaves actually develop better color under lower light, making them better exhibition plants for the upcoming winter orchid shows. Conversely, other orchids located in places that did not receive direct light are now feeling the direct rays of the sun through one side of the greenhouse. While they did not burn, leaves on some phals were yellowed indicating more light than they might like.
This same phenomenon, i.e. light coming from a new direction, is a good reason for those windowsill growers to examine their orchids as well for both excess light and too little light. While temperatures here in Florida are not likely to cause cold damage close to windows, it can be a concern further north or if windows are poorly insulated. Typically, damage is not significant enough to cause plant death, but can cause flower buds to drop.
One group of hobbyists does not have to worry about light angle or windows; under-light growers. They have another issue however, a need to alter day length to simulate the winter solstice. Many orchids depend not on the length of day, but on the change in day length. It will be equally important to begin increasing day length in January as this is the cue for the orchids to initiate some part of their life cycle.
The first phal flowers should be opening this month if you were successful at initiating spikes with cool nights a few months ago. Multifloral paphs with mature growths are putting up spikes now too. They appreciate a little more light than most other paphs and may also need to be moved into a better location.
These paphs are also initiating new growths. While a reduction in watering and fertilizing is warranted for both of these groups of orchids, do not stop altogether. If you water weakly, weekly, maintain the same fertilizer level. The reduction in watering will automatically reduce the total quantity of fertilizer you apply.
It is always surprising to see high light, hot loving vandas not only growing, but putting up flower spikes in winter. They seem to handle cool nights in the mid to upper 50s with no impact as long as the day temperature warms into the upper 70s or 80s. Over the years, I have noticed that these warm loving orchids continue their growth with new leaves and roots until there is an extended cold period with little light to warm the greenhouse during the day. I continue my regular fertilizing of vandas until I notice new, green root tips disappearing. Only then do I stop weekly fertilizing and do not fertilize again until they show new root growth.
Mostly, this time of year is a great time to relax and enjoy the myriads of species and hybrids that flower this time a year. If you are lucky, Santa might even bring you a gift certificate to your favorite orchid nursery.
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The smallest species of orchid flower in the world has been discovered hidden among the roots of a larger plant.
By Lewis Smith
The newly discovered orchid is from the Platystele genus and the petals are so thin that they are just one cell thick and transparent
 Photo: LOU JOST Lou Jost, a botanist, found the tiny orchid by accident when he was inspecting a plant collected in a forest in a mountainous region of Ecuador.
The previously unknown bloom is only 2.1mm across and takes over from the species Platystele jungermannioides as the world’s smallest orchid flower.
The newly discovered orchid is from the Platystele genus and the petals are so thin that they are just one cell thick and transparent.
It is just one of 60 new species of orchids that he has discovered in the last decade, along with 10 other plant species.
Dr Jost said of the orchid with the smallest flower: “I found it among the roots of another plant that I had collected, another small orchid which I took back to grow in my greenhouse to get it to flower.
“A few months later I saw that down among the roots was a tiny little plant that I realised was more interesting than the bigger orchid.
“Looking at the flower is often the best way to be able to identify which species of orchid you’re got hold of – and can tell you whether you’re looking at an unknown species or not.”
The tiny flower was unwittingly collected from the Cerro Candelaria reserve in the eastern Andes which was created by Ecuador’s EcoMinga Foundation in partnership with the World Land Trust in Britain.
Dr Jost, of the EcoMinga Foundation, is one of the world’s leading orchid hunters and added: “It’s a very exciting feeling to find a new species. People think everything has been discovered but there’s much more to be discovered.”
A second tiny orchid thought to be another type never seen before and collected in the Rio Anzu Reserve in central Ecuador, is among his other discoveries: “It was so small it looked like a piece of dirt at first. I was going through the moss on a fallen tree branch – they’re very good places for orchids to grow – when I spotted it. The flower was 3mm across.”
More than 1,000 orchid species have been discovered in Ecuador in the last century as plant collectors enjoy a bonanza made possible by the construction of roads which have allowed access to some of the remotest and unspoilt forest habitats in the world.
A group of 28 types of orchid which evolved in a mountainous area the size of London is among the most exciting of his finds in recent years for plant scientists. They were from the teagueia genus which had previously been thought to be restricted to just six species of orchid across the world. The evolution of the 28 closely related orchids in such a small patch of land was described as a botanical version of Darwin’s finches.
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| | Monday, October 26, 2009 - NCPOS November 2009 Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #11-03 |
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October 26 , 2009
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Dear $(FirstName)
Please join us for our next meeting on Sunday, November 1. Lunch begins at noon, with the business meeting and speaker following at 1. Our guest speaker will be Gene Crocker from Carter and Holmes. The title of his talk will be “My First 50 Years Growing Orchids”.
Gene Crocker grew up in the northwestern part of South Carolina, not far from where he now works as Vice-President of Carter and Holmes Orchids in Newberry, S.C. He obtained his first orchid plants in 1956, when he was 15 years old. These first plants were cattleyas, his first love, but he has an interest in any and all orchid genera.
After graduating from Clemson University in Textile Chemistry, he obtained a second degree in Meteorology from Penn State and served as a weather forecaster in the U.S. Air Force. He worked as Laboratory Manager for Cannon Mills, famous manufacturer of sheets and towels, for twenty years before joining Carter and Holmes in 1986.
As an amateur orchidist, Gene developed an interest in hybridizing, producing his first cattleya hybrids in 1961. One of his early hybrids is Blc. Kitty Crocker (Blc. Fortune x C. luteola), named for his wife. The creative aspects of orchid breeding have been very enjoyable and rewarding for him, always giving something to anticipate. He is now carrying on the breeding program at Carter and Holmes started in the 1950's by Bi ll Carter. He has traveled extensively, representing Carter and Holmes at various orchid conferences around the world. Perhaps Gene's greatest claim to orchid fame is the fact that he coined the term, "mericlone", in 1964.
Gene and his wife Kitty, who also works at Carter and Holmes, have three children: Mary, Bill, and Michael, and four grandsons, Spencer and Paxton Brooks - Brady and Brett Crocker.
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
November is the voting for NCPOS board members. The nominees are Pat Erhart, Carolyn Crozier, and Bob Freeman.
The December meeting is the Christmas Party. Details to come.
If you are not already a paid member of the NCPOS, we would love to have you join us! Membership dues are $15 for singles, $20 for families. Come be a part of our family.
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Rare and Beautiful Orchid Varieties on Display at Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden
N.C. Orchid Society Presents, “Orchids in the Trees”
Charlotte, NC—October 12, 2009—One of mother nature’s most captivating, complex and numerous flower genera will be on full display when the North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society presents its 2010 Annual Show, “Orchids in the Trees” at Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden. Hundreds of rare varieties from the intriguing bulbophyllums to the colorful cattleyas will be on display during the annual showcase that runs from Friday January 15 through Sunday January 17.
According to the highly respected Royal Botanical Gardens at Kew, it’s estimated that more than 22,000 species of orchids inhabit the earth—about four times the number of mammal species. Orchid hybrids number in the hundreds of thousands. The orchid offers one of the most spectacular variations of any plant and its flowers are celebrated around the world as representing beauty and grace. A majority of orchids is found in the tropics, but others have been found in remote regions including above the Arctic Circle and Macquarie Island, close to Antarctica. While some orchids grow on the ground including rocky soil, this year’s show features “perennial epiphytes,” growing on tropical and subtropical trees and shrubs.
“One of the greatest and most thrilling aspects of collecting orchids is the magnificent variety of flowers that are on display at any given time in the greenhouse,” says Jay Sifford, president of the North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society. “Some of the most respected orchid growers in our state and region will display vibrant and rare flowers from their greenhouses in this show, allowing the public to see—maybe for the first time—some of the stunning varieties in the orchid family that grow on trees.”
According to Sifford, we are fortunate to participate in such a spectacular array of orchids blooming during the winter months to offset the winter doldrums. Our winter season coincides with summer in the tropics, when the majority of the orchids we enjoy are growing, blooming, and being pollinated. In all, it’s expected that more than one thousand orchids will be on display, making the show one of the most prominent in the southeast region.
Visitors to the show will not only be able to view these delicate flowers, but expert growers will be selling a variety of orchids from all over the world. North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society members will be on hand to answer questions about these fascinating plants including how to grow, care, and nurture orchids at home.
“We are truly fortunate,” says Sifford, “there is no more beautiful setting in our region for this display of orchids than the Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden. For those who know about orchids and those who don’t, this year’s show features some of the most spectacular varieties found anywhere and these gardens provide the perfect backdrop.”
Details:
North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society (NCPOS) Annual Orchid Show is scheduled Friday - Sunday January 15-17, 2010. The show will be open 12-5pm Friday and 9am-5pm Saturday-Sunday at Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden, Belmont, North Carolina.
For travel information on Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden, visit www.dsbg.org.
For more information about the North Carolina Orchid Society, visit www.ncpiedmontorchid.org.
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GROWING TIPS for November
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
Charles Darwin would be proud if he had seen my approach to selecting phals this past year. Just a few years ago many of the phals from the new breeding lines were fairly expensive and hard to find. Today, we are inundated with large numbers of excellent clones of all types of phalaenopsis. As a result, most of us have more phals than space; hence my need for “the darwinian approach”.
While flowers on many of these mericlones are spectacular with large flowers or spectacular spots and stripes, the plants that produce them can sometimes be difficult to grow in the home or greenhouse environment. In some cases, these phalaenopsis were never easy to grow except under very strict environments with lots of fertilizers. One recent email contact said that most of the clones he tested were virused, something I have noted in the past with many mericlones.
So how does one decide to keep some phals and discard others? This is not as easy as it sounds. Often, when store-bought phals are repotted there is a relatively long period of recovery as it gets new roots and leaves. This can take several months or even an entire growing season if the phal had lost its root system entirely. This period of recovery can mask the normal growth of a very vigorous phal.
At most commercial nurseries where these phals are grown, there is extensive use of fungicides and bacteriacides that can hide inherited susceptibility to disease. Unless a hobbyist has and uses some of the really effective, but restricted products you are not likely to be able to provide the same level of protection.
Expose a bench of newly repotted phals from the pot plant trade to disease and many of these mericlones will be very susceptible to diseases that are common. Other clones rarely become infected, even if their neighbor has become infected. Susceptibility to rots can be a genetic characteristic inherent in some clones, especially when they are grown in temperatures higher or lower than the ideal.
Instead of selecting phals based on the best flowers or because they have awards, I have discarded any that continually developed rots. Modern phal clones are all great, so little loss of quality resulted. There were clearly a number of breeding lines that were less susceptible to rots than others. These were selected and kept, while others were discarded with very similar genetic backgrounds.
The great advantage of having such a large supply of inexpensive phals with great flowers is the ability to discard any that do not grow well instead of spending lots of time and space taking care of weak phals. Years ago, phal hybridizers employed this approach and discarded weak seedlings. Now, however, disease control allows growers to mass-produce phal clones with great or unique flowers no matter how difficult the clone was to grow under normal conditions. In the past, I maintained these in my collection, but now have the ability to discard them since similar clones that grow better are available. This is a fantastic time to put together a great phal collection for what would have once cost a fortune.
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| | Friday, October 02, 2009 - October NCPOS Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #10-03 |
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October 1 , 2009
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Dear $(FirstName)
Please join us for our next meeting on Sunday, October 4. Lunch begins at noon, with the business meeting and speaker following at 1 p.m. Our guest speaker will be Mark Reinke, co-owner of Marble Branch Farms. The title of his talk will be "Honey, I Shrunk the Or-Kids: The History and Development of Compact and Miniature Cattleyas."
Marble Branch Farms is the dream of two lifelong horticulturists, Gary Alan Collier and Mark Alan Reinke, who share a mutual passion for unique and unusual plants. Our goal as orchid hybridizers has been to produce something a little different from the same old hybrids that everyone seems to sell these days. We have looked at the current trends in compact Cattleya breeding and have noticed several voids between breeding lines being developed in places likeHawaii, the Caribbean and elsewhere that we hope to fill with new, beautiful and more temperature tolerant hybrids. We also have an eye for something unique, charming, and a little different. To this end we offer the results of our breeding program in the tradition of cutting edge hybridizers of the past such as W.G.G. Moir, whose wonderful creations using Encyclia, Schomburgkia, and other less known members of the Cattleya alliance were somewhat ahead of their time.
We are located on a private road in a remote area at the base of the Blue Ridge Mountains, where we receive abundant winter sunshine owing to the ‘downslope’ effect of the winter winds off the high mountains behind us. We find this extra light in winter highly beneficial to the orchid plants we grow, keeping them in top condition for our customers. We regret that our growing area and propagation laboratory are not open to the general public due to the private and difficult access to our farm. We will, however, offer guided tours to groups from local orchid societies or other horticultural organizations. Please email us for details: info@marblebranchfarms.com.
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
Thanks to everyone who came out to suppor the auction last month. Over $900 was raised for the society.
Our speaker for November will be Gene Crocker from Carter and Holmes.
If you are not already a paid member of the NCPOS, we would love to have you join us! Membership dues are $15 for singles, $20 for families. Come be a part of our family.
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Growing Tips for October
By
Courtney T. Hackney
EMAIL at Hackneau@comcast.net
There is a saying among orchid hobbyists that “there is no such thing as a greenhouse too large”. For those addicted to orchids this will not come as a shock. All of us constantly must limit our acquisitions or face the prospect of finding more growing space. It does not matter if one has 12 or 12 thousand orchids; there is always the need for more space.
Many of us “senior growers” like to think that we have mastered enough discipline to curate our collections so that the quality of the orchids is always improving. Favorites from long ago mingle with newly discovered special orchids so that it is difficult to find an orchid we like better. Even the super seedlings purchased a few years before do not match favorites collected over the years.
There are a few such growers in every orchid club. They look over each speaker’s sales table very carefully and only rarely purchase an orchid. These few have mastered the art of orchid collecting. Each meeting they bring a few of their favorites for everyone to enjoy and take great pride in having found old or rare clones of special hybrids or species. Such a collection takes a lifetime to build.
One of the most heartbreaking tragedies I have observed over the years has come from visiting an old orchid-growing friend or an older hobbyist whose orchid collection was well- known. In many instances, collections once carefully maintained had clearly exceeded the ability of their owner to take care of them. To see fantastic and rare orchids covered with scale or shriveled from lack of water is difficult.
Many great orchid collections were lost when their owners were rushed to a hospital or unable to spend time with their collection because of family illness. Snowstorms, power outages, and other devastating events seem to always occur during these times.
One famous South Florida orchidist, Robert Scully, Sr, turned his orchid business over to his son, Jones & Scully, Inc, and moved to Ocala, Florida. He selected only a small number of his famous clones to take with him; a number small enough to take care of in retirement. I always wondered which clones he selected given the fantastic collection from which he had to choose in his nursery.
At various times, I have tried to contemplate the dilemma of aging and reducing the size of my collection so that adequate care could be given to my favorite orchids. How does one reduce their collection from several thousand to a hundred or twenty-five. It came as some comfort to discover that Robert Scully, Sr., also could not resist adding a favorite clone or two each time he visited the family business in Miami such that his small greenhouse in Ocala was soon stuffed.
Clearly, even the strongest-willed orchid lovers among us cannot manage to slowly shrink their collection as they age. Helen Congleton, who passed away a few years ago, introduced me to a different approach. She maintained that the orchids in her greenhouse did not really belong to her. She was just taking care of these treasures for awhile and was responsible for transferring them to others that would do the same.
Each time one of her cattleyas grew out of the pot, she would cut the lead three bulbs, pot the division and give the remaining bulbs in the old pot to an orchid growing friend that had expressed an interest in that orchid. She did the same with keikis of phals and cuttings or divisions for everything she treasured. Today, I am the guardian of a number of these plants and I try to do the same; search for a suitable host to whom I will someday transfer the orchid.
Most of us prepare a will or let our loved ones know our wishes when we die, but often the orchids we so diligently collected and cared for are forgotten in that preparation. Recently, I made a list of my favorite orchids. Beside each plant is the name of someone I know that expressed an interest in the clone. In the case of some sudden event, my wish is that these be distributed to those named. So many great collections are lost or sold en mass as pot plants to people who do not appreciate how unique a special old clone is or the role a clone played in breeding today’s magnificent hybrids.
The only way to ensure that others will be able to appreciate these special orchids in the future and add them to their collections is to share and be sure that there is someone designated to care for what was once very special to you. Today, my collection is full of orchids that came from special people I have known over the years and each time that orchid blooms I remember them. That is just a special benefit of being a host for “special orchids”.
Rare Hybrid Orchid Found on Maryland's Eastern Shore (from www.delmarvanow.com)
SNOW HILL — An extremely rare hybrid orchid, Platanthera x canbyi, was discovered recently at Nassawango Creek Preserve on Maryland’s Eastern Shore in Worcester County. The hybrid orchid is a combination of the white-fringed orchid (Platanthera blephariglottis) and the crested yellow orchid (Platanthera cristata), which are both state-rare plants themselves.
Last week 3 individual hybrid orchids were found in bloom at Nassawango Creek. Fewer than a dozen individual plants have been recorded within the state in the past 70 years.
“We are thrilled with this discovery at our Nassawango Creek Preserve,” said Nat Williams, director of The Nature Conservancy of Maryland/DC. At 10,000 acres, Nassawango Creek Preserve is the largest private nature preserve in Maryland, which combined with state lands forms a 30-square mile protected conservation area on the Eastern Shore. It is home to 90 state-rare and endangered plants and animals.
The hybrid orchid was discovered last week in a part of Nassawango that had been treated with prescribed fire, as part of an effort to promote the growth of native plants. This summer The Nature Conservancy fire-treated a record 240 acres on their Maryland preserves, more than a ten-fold increase from previous years.
“The appearance of this rare hybrid orchid tells us the restoration work we are doing with prescribed fire, and other methods, is producing results,” said Williams.
The hybrid orchid was discovered by Ron Wilson, a local botanist who had been hired by The Nature Conservancy to do a biological survey of the burn-treated sites.
“I saw two large groupings of crested yellow and white-fringed orchids,” said Wilson. “When I came up to the hybrid orchid I suspected we could have something very special.”
Wilson was familiar with the hybrid orchid, as he, along with fellow botanist Frank Hirst, found three plants at another site in Maryland 18 years ago.
After sighting the hybrid orchid, Ron Wilson contacted biologist Wes Knapp of Maryland’s Department of Natural Resources, who dropped everything to confirm the appearance of the hybrid orchid first-hand.
“I had never seen this flower before,” said Knapp. “I’m excited to be one of the few people in Maryland who have seen this plant.”
Orchids are a family of flowering plants usually associated with more tropical climates. Their showy flowers, along with the rarity of some orchid species, make them a favorite among hobby botanists. An overzealous orchid hobbyist was characterized in the movie “Adaptation.”
Funding for fire treatment at Nassawango Creek came from the Landowner Incentive Program, a competitive grant program that establishes partnerships between federal and state governments and private landowners.
“At Nassawango we’re gradually converting several thousand acres of loblolly pine plantations to mixed native hardwood forest,” said Deborah Landau, conservation biologist for The Nature Conservancy of Maryland/DC. “Fire gives native plants a head start—we’re jumpstarting restoration.”
One particularly wet 30-acre burn plot at Nassawango has already been replanted with Atlantic white cedar seedlings provided by the National Aquarium at Baltimore. Once abundant along the East Coast, these wetland evergreens have declined dramatically due to habitat loss.
Besides the hybrid orchid, several other rare plant species were found on the fire-treated portions of Nassawango Creek Preserve. Scleria triglomerata, Scleria pauciflora, Carex venusta, and Rhynchospora torreyana, four species of rare sedges, were also discovered.
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| | Thursday, September 03, 2009 - September 2009 NCPOS E-newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #9-03 |
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September 1 , 2009
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Dear $(FirstName)
Please join us for our annual NCPOS auction on Saturday, September 12, at the home of Harry and Susie Gallis. A covered dish luncheon will begin at noon, with the auction beginning at 1. The society will provide the main dishes. Members are asked to bring a side dish, lawn chairs, and their checkbooks. Guests are invited and only need bring their checkbooks! PLEASE NOTE THAT THERE WILL BE NO REGULAR SEPT 6 MEETING AT UNCC.
Directions to the auction: From I-77, take exit 28 (Cornelius).Head towards the lake (left from 77N, right from 77S). Go 1 mile (you will be on Catawba Ave). Turn right at light onto Jetton Rd (Wachovia on the right). Go 1 mile, turn right onto Meta Rd., then right onto Stough Farm, right onto Betty Stough and bear irght onto Mary Ardrey Circle. It is the fifth house on right, 19401 Mary Ardrey Circle. Please note signs re: where to park.
This year we will have a great selection of budded plants: phalaenopsis, paphs, miltioniopsis, masdevallias, as well as some cattleyas and vandas.
Come join us for food, fellowship, and lots of orchids.
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
Our speaker for October will be Mark Reinke. He will be speaking on the history and development of compact cattleyas. Our November speaker will be Gene Crocker from Carter and Holmes.
If you are not already a paid member of the NCPOS, we would love to have you join us! Membership dues are $15 for singles, $20 for families. Come be a part of our family.
The Board has been reviewing the NCPOS Constitution and Bylaws and has made recommendations on items to be updated or deleted. Per the Constitution, these proposed changes must be read and passed out in printed form at two consecutive meetings. We will vote on this important issue at the October meeting.
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GROWING TIPS for September
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
Fall in the tropics can mean many things depending on where in the tropics one looks. There may be more rain, less rain, clear skies, and even cool nights. But there is one universal facet to fall everywhere, shortening day length. Here, as in the tropics, many species of orchids and their hybrids are reacting to shorter days. Fall blooming cattleyas are already showing buds deep in their sheaths or even blooming.
In my greenhouse in Florida, many fall blooming cattleyas have already bloomed even though fall does not begin until September 22. Blc Norman’s Bay completed blooming in early August and immediately began growth on two new leads. Late summer blooms followed by late fall blooms is not uncommon if fall blooming cattleyas are mature and well-established.
Typically, cattleya flowers last longer and are better colored when blooms develop during cool nights. This is especially true when yellow pigments are involved. The rich deep purple of Blc Oconee ‘Mendenhall’ or red from Blc Owen Holmes ‘Mendenhall’ is not as intense in summer since the yellow pigments in flowers do not develop as well in the heat.
 Depending on your location, September is often a good month to initiate flower spikes in standard Phalaenopsis. A day to night temperature difference of 15 degrees F for a week to 10 days will cause your phals to initiate spikes. It is important to initiate spikes as soon as possible since the growth of phal spikes will slow as days get shorter and available energy decreases. Hobbyists with orchids outside can let nature take its course. If you grow in a closed greenhouse, the temperature can be lowered to that of the outside by simply keeping exhaust fans on at night. Some commercial growers with cooling pads run cooling pads along with exhaust fans all night to lower the temperature inside the greenhouse below the external environment.
The vast majority of orchid hobbyists grow their orchids inside in windows or under lights. Many have difficulty getting their orchids to re-bloom and assume they are not providing enough light. Often though, it is the lack of seasonal change in day length because of interior lights, or because of a sufficient drop in temperature, especially for phalaenopsis. Leaving windows open next to phals or even placing orchids outside for a couple of weeks can accomplish the prerequisite temperature drop.
Windowsill growers should watch the change in the sun’s angle carefully. Orchids growing happily during summer may become vulnerable to burning in a south-facing window. Similarly, leaves may be thinning in trees shading orchids outside and orchids may burn. Greenhouse growers may consider reducing shade, since the sun’s angle and intensity have changed since the summer’s peak in late June.
The declining solar radiation and longer nights also means that your orchids need less water. Pay more attention to over-watering now since there is less time for orchids to dry each day.
Typically, less fertilizer is also required this time of year. Cattleyas fertilized with Nutricote last spring will have used up what was released and no additional fertilizer will be necessary until next spring. There will be some residual fertilizer that has been incorporated in the medium and this should suffice until spring. Phals and other orchids that grow and flower all year long will need additional fertilizer, but not as much as they did during the peak growing season. Phals often produce larger spikes if fertilizer is withheld for a month or so this time of year.
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Autumn is a wonderful season for many of the bifoliate cattleya species, such as c. bowringiana, pictured above. This species is one of the easiest to grow, good for beginners. It likes lots of light and a good amount of water during its growing season. Beware, this plant is not for windowsill growers, as it can reach 4 feet in height. A large specimen can have up to two dozen inflorescences.
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| | Wednesday, June 03, 2009 - June 2009 NCPOS E-Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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Dear $(FirstName)
Please join us for our Sunday, June 7 meeting. Our speaker will be Bryon Rinke. Bryon will be speaking on "Warm to Intermediate Growing Pleurothallids".
Bryon K. Rinke, lives in Winfield, KS. He has a medical background in Radiologic Technology, specializing in CT (Computed Tomography) and MRI (Magnetic Resonance Imaging). He has been growing orchids since 1980. Bryon started growing everything orchid wise under fluorescent lights and in a window, soon realizing that Vanda's don't work well under lights. This is when he came to the conclusion that miniature species did well under lights, and you could purchase so many more to fit the same area. He was bitten by the Pleurothallis bug when he went to the World Orchid Conference in Brazil. The rest is history, so they say. He now grows in a greenhouse with Max Thompson at Southwestern College in Winfield. Poinsettia's, bedding plants, and orchids are their main crops to pay the bills at the greenhouse. His talk will show photos of the greenhouses in Winfield, how they grow the pleurothallis, and a lot of photos of the Pleurothallid Alliance.
Bryon will not be bringing plants for sale. He will bring a price/availability list. He will mail plants to interested members once he returns home.
Our usual covered dish luncheon begins at noon, with the program following lunch at 1. We'll be looking for you! Please bring a friend.
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
Our guest speaker for July will be Fred Clarke of Sunset Valley Orchids in California. Fred was with us last year. He gave an excellent program and brought some beautiful plants for sale. If you would like to pre-order some plants from Fred, you may view his list at www.sunsetvalleyorchids.com. When you contact him, make sure you tell him that you are pre-ordering for delivery to the NCPOS meeting in July.
If you are not already a paid member of the NCPOS, we would love to have you join us! Membership dues are $15 for singles, $20 for families. Come be a part of our family.
Special thanks to Don Osborne for hosting our lunch at the June meeting.
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GROWING TIPS for June
By
Courtney T. Hackney
There are many products available today for orchid growing, most far more expensive than necessary. Hobbyists usually just pay the price since they have only a few plants. As your collection gets larger or you wish to be more frugal there are many ways to reduce the cost of your hobby.
Many hobbyists got stared when presented with a gift of an orchid and are still in the early stages of learning to grow. Many of the big-box stores get a regular supply of orchids, which are sold as pot plants. Some orchids do not sell and go out of bloom. These are either tossed or placed on a sales table at a reduced price. Caution should be exercised when purchasing these orchids, but some bargains can be found. Inexpensive orchids also make great plants on which to experiment. Learn to repot using these orchids. Try different media and pots. All of these “experiments” will teach you to be a better grower and make you more confident when you purchase an orchid that you really like. Most hobbyists err in the beginning because they are afraid to damage a newly purchased orchid so they do nothing when a problem develops.
Fertilizer is a classic example of the concept that excellent orchids do not require the most expensive products. One of my favorite growers that proved the concept was the late Ralph Wasdon from Greenville, NC. He used K Mart, soluble fertilizer and grew orchids as well as anyone I ever met. When asked to speak about his prowess in growing orchids he always replied that it only took five minutes to explain his methods; water when needed, fertilize when you remember, and put your plants under the pines when it was warm enough.
Practical wisdom is often overlooked when growing “exotic” orchids in favor of the elaborate and expensive. Powdered cinnamon is a very effective fungicide applied directly to the wound. Many growers buy cinnamon powder by the bag and sprinkle it over roots and rhizome just before placing a newly repotted orchid in a new pot. This non-toxic and relatively inexpensive fungicide has the added benefit of a nice fragrance.
Another simple, and amazingly effective, anti-bacterial/anti fungal agent is Hydrogen Peroxide. It is available everywhere for topical use. Joe Grezaffi introduced me to its use. Whenever he saw crown rot in a phal or rot on a cattleya he poured hydrogen peroxide right in the crown or damaged area. For awhile, I used half strength, but found that there was never any damage from using it full strength. It even stops pseudomonas rot on phal leaves that I once cut off entirely when I saw just a small rot spot.
One of the most significant changes in fertilizer for orchids is the availability of a slow release fertilizer named Nutricote. This product is being used by many commercial orchid nurseries, but is even more important to the hobbyist who has just a small number of orchids. Available as Dynamite in small quantities from Home Depot stores, this is an easy to use fertilizer that delivers a constant supply of nutrients for a set amount of time. Most last for six months and provide micronutrients as well.
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Summer is the primary stanhopea bloom season. These wonderful plants with attractive leaves are best grown in a wire basket with a spaghnum/sponge rock blend, kept moist and fairly shady. Fertilizing in the spring with a Cal-Mag fertilizer will give you strong new growths.
The inflorescences grow from the bottom of the plant, hence the need for a fairly open basket. The flowers generally last only three to five days, but with many spikes and several flushes, these plants are well worth growing. The flowers are unbelievably exotic and fragrant. Some people actually have stanhopea parties when their plants are in bloom.
These plants may be purchased locally from the greenhouses of some of our members: Woodland Orchids and Carolina Orchids. Give these spectacular orchids a try!
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| | Thursday, April 30, 2009 - May 2009 NCPOS E-Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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Dear $(FirstName)
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
Tom and Shan Nasser will be hosting the South Carolina Orchid Society AUCTION on Saturday, May 2, rain or shine. The preview will start at 11, lunch will be served at noon, with the auction beginning at 1. Bring a chair and enjoy the festivities and the food. Shan will be grilling pork tenderloin, pork ribs and hot dogs. We are all cordially invited. Carolina Orchids is located on Pleasant Rd in Fort Mill. Pleasant Rd is directly across from the Carowinds Thunder Road roller coaster. See Tom or Shan more more detailed directions.
Owens Orchids is having an open house on May 14-16 at their greenhouse complex near Asheville. They are offering all their regularly priced plants at a 50% discount. We are considering taking a group trip with perhaps a picnic in nearby Pisgah National Forest. Please email Jay at jaythefishguy@earthlink.net if you are interested in participating in this trip on Saturday, May 16.
If you are not already a paid member of the NCPOS, we would love to have you join us! Membership dues are $15 for singles, $20 for families. Come be a part of our family.
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Please join us for our next meeting this Sunday, May 3. Our guest speaker will be David McAdoo.
David comes to us from Greensboro. He has a keen interest and knowledge of native orchids, which will be the subject of his talk. He is co-founder and current President of the Native Orchid Conference. He is also an accomplished photographer, with his work having been displayed in the Smithsonian and well as on the cover of the October 2008 "Orchids" Magazine.
Our Sunday meeting begins at noon with a covered dish luncheon, followed by the program at 1. Please join us and bring an interested friend. See you there!
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Growing Tips for May
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Dept. Biology
Univ. North Florida
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
Most orchid hobbyists can’t resist a novel hybrid or really odd species. That is why we are all “out of space”. Even so, we still bring home a new orchid whenever we visit an orchid nursery or orchid show. “Space, is the final frontier” for most of us. What makes growing orchids difficult is the fact that different orchids require different growing conditions and we want to grow them all.
Those growing inside, either under lights or on windowsills, are generally used to orienting their orchids to the proper light levels. Orchids requiring high light, e.g. vandas, are placed close to the light, while phalaenopsis that prefer lower light levels are placed near the edge of the light table. There may be seasonal changes you initiate too, brought on by increasing day length or by changing light bulbs to coincide with spring. It’s important to remember that the intensity of desirable wavelengths generated by grow lights decreases as bulbs age, so it is necessary to replace bulbs long before they stop working.
In greenhouses too, the location of orchids is important. Besides changes in day length, the sun changes both in intensity and orientation. A perfect location for your bulbophyllums in winter may be too bright in spring and summer. This is the time of year where it may be necessary to revisit the location of some orchids.
In my new greenhouse, there are two areas where the change in season has necessitated moving some orchids. What were once cool, shady spots are now very bright.
Because space is at a premium in most greenhouses, there are many hanging plants in my greenhouse oriented in layers. Visitors are often surprised to find phalaenopsis and bulbophyllums hanging high in the greenhouse. While they are hanging, they are shaded by vandas or other high light orchids. If you decide to try “layering” in either your greenhouse or indoor growing area be aware that there are other aspects of orchid growing you must consider.
Phalaenopsis hanging under vandas would stay too wet in the typical medium used for phalaenopsis, so my hanging phals are potted in coarse lava rock. Vandas and phalaenopsis both love high humidity and heat, but differ in their preference for light and drying tolerance. Vanda roots prefer to grow exposed and be dry by day’s end, while phalaenopsis roots prefer not to dry thoroughly each day. Thus, my vandas are grown without medium and the phals hanging below them are in well-drained clay pots with lava rock. Both are watered most bright days and dry by the end of each day to an appropriate level for the individual plants.
There are also some high-light areas in the greenhouse where water is applied at infrequent intervals, especially in winter. Here, various encyclias and C dowiana var aurea hang in pots along with certain cattleya species that prefer to be kept on the dry side. Phalaenopsis and bulbophyllums hanging below these plants would become too dry unless they were treated differently. It is not easy to water orchids hanging below other orchids, so here moisture-loving orchids are potted in a fine bark mix or sphagnum and grown in plastic pots, which keeps them moist between weekly watering.
My system works now because I have learned how to do it by trial and error. Many orchids suffered during the learning process. The key to successful layering is to learn which areas dry fastest and which tend to stay wet longer. To practice “layering” successfully you will also have to learn about the requirements of different orchids too.
Cattleya Nacouchee 'Mission Valley'
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| | Saturday, March 28, 2009 - April 2009 NCPOS E-Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #4-03 |
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April 1, 2009
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Dear $(FirstName)
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
2009 Membership dues are PAST DUE on April 1. We want to know what interests you! Please go to the "About Us" Tab at the top of the website, hold your cursor over that tab until the Membership Application pops up. Print the form, fill it out and bring it with you to the next meeting or mail it to Bill Jolly at the address shown on the form. Single memberships are $15. Family memberships are $20.
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Please join us for our April 5 Meeting. Our guest speaker will be David Janvrin.
David Janvrin has been growing orchids since the early 1980s and has a small aluminum frame and glass greenhouse at his home in Anderson, SC. The joys of orchid growing and a thirst for knowledge led him to join the AOS judging program where he has been accredited since 2002 and now serves as training coordinator for the Atlanta Center.
David has a keen interest in the culture and breeding of the so-called ‘Chinese Cymbidiums.’ Particular species within the group have been cherished by various Asian cultures for thousands of years. A lack of conformation with the AOS guidelines for quality in cymbidium lines has resulted in these species being overlooked on the award table. Nevertheless, they can be very rewarding to grow and enjoy. David will talk to the society about these orchids as well as a few others which share a special quality which will be of interest to growers in our temperate area.
Our meeting begins at noon with a covered dish luncheon. The business meeting and program follows promptly at 1 p.m. See you there!
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The above photo is of the NCPOS exhibit at the Western NC Orchid Society Show which takes place this weekend. Virginia and Jay tailored the exhibit to the show's oriental theme. Thanks to Harry, Virginia, UNCC, Jeremy and Jay for sending plants, and to Rountree Plantation Nursery for allowing us to borrow the three ceramic balls for the center of the exhibit.
The show is outstanding for its exhibits and quality of plants. For those of you who want to escape town for a day and head to Asheville, this show is highly recommended. The show is housed at the NC Arboretum and runs through Sunday, March 29 at 5 p.m.
Please note that all 2009 membership dues are past due effective April 1. For those of you who have not renewed your membership and would like to do so, and those of you who have never joined with us but have been receiving our complimentary newsletter, you may bring your dues to the next meeting, or download the membership application on the "about us" page on the website, www.ncpiedmontorchid.org. You may mail your dues to Bill Jolly, Treasurer, at the address listed on the application. We look forward to having you join with us as we grow and prosper as a society.
Growing Tips for April
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Dept. Biology
Univ. North Florida
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
This month is one of the busiest for every orchid grower. After a period of relative dormancy, orchids of every kind are beginning to grow. New orchid growers must learn to recognize when the growth cycle begins. Proper repotting and fertilizing of orchids depends on that recognition. The purpose of repotting should not be to multiply a plant, but to replace decaying medium. A well grown plant, however, will often need a larger pot and yield extra pieces (divisions) for friends.
In nature, growth begins with some signal from nature, usually a change in day length or the beginning of the rainy season. Orchid hobbyists who become skilled growers of species also become competent naturalists because they must learn the key elements of the environment from which their difficult-to-grow orchids come.
Most of us do not undertake growing the difficult species, but enjoy the more generic hybrids that are much easier to grow and for which, signs of growth are clear. Standard phalaenopsis, those with large flowers, begin their growth cycle when days begin to get longer and the temperature within the pot remains above 60 F. They will begin growth even with flowers on spikes. However, growth will begin earlier and proceed faster if spikes are removed. New leaves emerging from the center of the old leaves and new roots breaking from the stem just above the last living roots are a sure sign that growth has begun.
When this happens, your phalaenopsis can be repotted with the least damage. If your phalaenopsis was a gift, it likely needs repotting. If the medium in the pot seems to stay wet longer or your orchids’ leaves are wilting, it likely needs repotting. Repotting can be as simple as removing the plant from the medium, shaking the old medium from the roots and replacing the orchid in a new pot with new medium. New hobbyists can find lots of information, including videos, on the process of repotting or attend a local orchid society potting demonstration and learn how to repot a phalaenopsis. It is easy.
Cattleya hybrids can generally be repotted in spring too. The trick is to begin the process before the orchid initiates root growth. Once new roots begin, there is the risk of damage to these new roots, which may set the plant back. It is OK to repot before roots are seen unless the hybrid is a “bifoliate-type” (very tall pseudobulbs and two or more leaves on each bulb). If you have one of this group, wait until you see new roots, which may be later in the spring or early summer. Members of this group can be killed by repotting at the wrong time.
Paphs and Phrags (slippers) are best repotted right after they flower. While they decrease their growth rate when light levels are lower, they will grow all year long. Usually, there is a new growth beginning to mature as the older growth finishes flowering on a plant.
Vandas are particularly sensitive to low temperatures. This group of orchids grow best in high light, accompanied by night temperatures above 65 F and days above 80 F. Most mature vandas are grown mounted or in baskets. Hobbyists that grow indoors are often enticed into purchasing vandas in hanging baskets and then left wondering what to do with them. They can be repotted into large clay pots as long as the medium has a diameter of an inch or more. However, it is best to avoid repotting this type of orchid. Once it gets warm, find a place outside under a lightly shading tree and water frequently.
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| | Tuesday, February 24, 2009 - March 2009 NCPOS Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #3-03 |
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March 1, 2009
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Dear $(FirstName)
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
2009 Membership dues are now being accepted. We want to know what interests you! Please go to the "About Us" Tab at the top of the website, hold your cursor over that tab until the Membership Application pops up. Print the form, fill it out and bring it with you to the next meeting or mail it to Bill Jolly at the address shown on the form. Single memberships are $15. Family memberships are $20.
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We will be installing a 150 sq. ft. garden at the Spring Show on Monday, March 2 as a fundraiser. Anyone interested in helping please contact Virginia or Jay.
We will be participating in the Western NC Orchid Society show in Asheville, with installation date being Thursday, March 26. If you have some nice blooming plants that you would like to send, please contact Jay or Virginia. This will be an AOS judged show, and is our last scheduled show for this year.
Jeremy Losaw's website has changed addresses. The new address is www.orchidtopia.com. We're all encouraged to join. You can share your photos, write blogs, interact with other members, ask questions, etc. Thanks Jeremy for your hard work!
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Please join us for our next meeting, Sunday, March 1, at noon. The meeting begins with a covered dish luncheon, and is followed by a business meeting and program at 1. This month's speaker is our own Dr. Larry Mellichamp. Larry is a Professor of Biology at UNC-Charlotte and well-known in horticultural circles. He attended a seminar in Australia last year. Larry will be speaking on the Orchids of Australia.
Bring a friend and join us!
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The NCPOS is installing an orchid exhibit at the Southern Spring Show. Installation date is Monday, March 2 at 11 a.m., with take-out being on Sunday, March 8 at 6. We need some medium and large sized blooming orchids for the exhibit. If you would be willing to donate any plants for this garden, please email Jay at jaythefishguy@earthlink.net with details. You may bring your plants to the meeting on Sunday or bring them to the Mart on Monday morning. Please write your name on the back of your tags. We will also need help with take-out. Thanks so much.
We experienced something very special at our February meeting. The Board presented the first "NCPOS Don Osborne Service Award" to Mr. Don Osborne, for his service to our society over the last forty years. Don is a past President of the NCPOS and is an AOS Judge Emeritus with the Carolinas Judging Center, in addition to being our AOS rep. Congratulations Don!
This award will be presented to members for outstanding service to the society when warranted.
Growing Tips for February
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Dept. Biology
Univ. North Florida
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
Nothing is as basic to orchid culture as the orchid pot. There is more to the pot than just a container and selection of the best pot for your orchid plants can mean the difference between success and failure. The choice of growing container depends on the type of orchid being grown and the growing environment, i.e. your home or a greenhouse.
One of my favorite pots is the clear plastic type. They are generally produced using the same plastic and process as other orchid pots, but no color is added. Instead, a UV inhibitor is added to prevent sunlight from braking down the plastic. Occasionally, pots will be made and sold without the UV inhibitor and these pots discolor and disintegrate in just a few months in the sunlight.
Besides additional drainage, many plastic orchid pots have a raised bottom, which allows air to flow below and through the pot. All orchids hate stale air because it is depleted in oxygen. Orchids are now grown in just about every medium from those that retain water well, such as New Zealand or Chilean Sphagnum to various types of rock, including lava rock and Staylight.
The real beauty in a clear pot is the ability to determine the degree of wetness within the pot. I grow Paphs in lava rock. Paph roots prefer a constant moisture level. If their roots dry out the orchid suffers. In clear plastic, it is easy to tell when the moisture level drops because the inside of the pot can be easily observed. With lava rock there is never the chance that the medium will get too soggy as long as each rock is >¼” in diameter . It is also easy to observe the new roots because they like to grow along the inside of the pot where moisture precipitates from the change in temperature each night. Lava rock retains lots of moisture, but other types of rock typically do not.
Phals are often grown in clear plastic pots with New Zealand Sphagnum as the medium. Phals sold as pot plants often arrive in clear pots, the ones that degrade quickly in the sun. Phal roots will grow along the clear plastic side of the pot and seem to always grow best where the sun strikes the pot. Phals in this type of pot usually have big, fat roots that turn green if moist. If you purchase a phal in this medium and there are no roots growing along the inside of the pot you can be sure the plant was recently placed in this pot. Water only when the inside of the pot becomes very dry at least until new roots can be seen growing inside the pot.
In clear pots, Phal roots, which contain chlorophyll, can generate oxygen and aid root growth if watered properly. When moisture levels are low on the inside of the pot in the morning it is time to water. Often the surface will be so dry by this time that most folks would have already watered; which would have been too soon.
Most hobbyists grow in bark or some other organic medium. Clear pots allow an easy way to determine the degree of medium decomposition, which may vary greatly depending on the medium, fertilizer, and watering frequency.
Finding clear, plastic pots is not always easy and they can be prohibitively expensive compared to other plastic pots. My strategy is to try to have at least one plant of each orchid type, i.e. Phal, Paph, etc, in a clear pot on every bench to help me monitor the moisture condition in pots throughout the greenhouse. The only group of orchids that do not get this type of treatment are my cattleyas because they are all grown in clay pots. Does anyone know where I can get clear, clay pots? That would be ideal.
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| | Monday, January 26, 2009 - February 2009 NCPOS Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #2-03 |
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February 1, 2009
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Dear $(FirstName)
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
2009 Membership dues are now being accepted. We want to know what interests you! Please go to the "About Us" Tab at the top of the website, hold your cursor over that tab until the Membership Application pops up. Print the form, fill it out and bring it with you to the next meeting or mail it to Bill Jolly at the address shown on the form. Single memberships are $15. Family memberships are $20.
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UPCOMING SPEAKER FOR MARCH: Larry Mellichamp, speaking on Orchids of Australia.
If anyone has plants to send for inclusion in the NCPOS exhibit at the Triad Show this weekend, please email Virginia (VRappold@aol.com). They should be delivered to Virginia, Jay, or Don, by Wednesday evening.
The SCOS show is coming up Feb 13-15 at Riverbanks Zoo in Columbia. If anyone wants to help Jay with installation on Thursday, Feb 12, contact him at jaythefishguy@earthlink.net. We're also looking for quality plants for the exhibit.
We will be installing a 150 sq. ft. garden at the Spring Show on Monday, March 2 as a fundraiser. Anyone interested in helping please contact Virginia or Jay.
Jeremy Losaw's website has changed addresses. The new address is www.orchidtopia.com. We're all encouraged to join. You can share your photos, write blogs, interact with other members, ask questions, etc. Thanks Jeremy for your hard work!
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Please join us for our next meeting, which is Sunday, February 1. Our luncheon begins at noon, with the program following at 1 p.m. All visitors are expected and welcome!
Our speaker will be Alan Koch of Gold Country Orchids.
In 1978 Alan and Cheryl Koch opened Koch Orchids in Newbury Park, California. At this location they concentrated on orchids that could grow outdoors in California and some Cattleyas. Soon the Cattleyas became the major interest and started to require more greenhouse space. A 16 x 30 foot greenhouse and two 10 x 60 foot lath house were soon outgrown and a new location was needed. In 1983 the move was made to Northern California. With the move, a new name was in order and Koch Orchids soon became Gold Country Orchids. For two years we leased greenhouse space in the Sacramento Valley, and in 1985 purchased 10 acres in Lincoln, California where we are today. We now have 3 modern greenhouses with rolling benches and computer controls to house our orchids. With 16,000 square feet of growing area and three climate zones we have plenty of room for all of our lovely plants.
Alan will be speaking on miniature cattleyas, especially those which can be grown in a windowsill or under lights. He will be bringing plants for sale at the meeting. In addition, you may go to his website, www.goldcountryorchids.com, and pre-book plants for delivery at the meeting. Email Alan directly through his website to order. DO NOT use the online shopping feature, as this will charge you for shipping. His crosses are awesome!
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Thanks to everyone who worked so diligently to make our first show at Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden a success. Congratulations to Larry Mellichamp and John Denti of UNCC Greenhouses for their AOS trophy-winning tabletop exhibit (pictured below), and to Dorcas Brogdon for her Orchid Digest award.
Growing Tips for January
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Dept. Biology
Univ. North Florida
Days are finally getting longer now that we have reached the winter solstice. Many orchids use a lengthening day as a cue to begin the flowering process. Greenhouse growers can sit back and let Nature do its thing, but those growing indoors need to provide an increase in day length in the next month to initiate spring flowering.
While we typically think that winter is a difficult time for our orchids, remember that many tropical orchids come from relatively high elevations and so the cooler nights and days are ideal for them. Miltoniopsis, Lycastes, Odontoglossums, Phragmipediums, and numerous other genera that suffered from the heat for much of the year now thrive. Some orchid growers include cool growing orchids in their collections and provide lots of shading or even air conditioning in summer to provide cooler temperatures. Even many orchids that do well in summer thrive when the stress of high temperatures is relieved.
Cool days and even cooler nights slow down plant metabolism (activities in the plant that use energy). When light is hitting orchid leaves the temperature inside the orchid leaf is much higher and the plant can regulate that temperature to maximize photosynthesis even in cooler conditions. At night, however, cooler temperatures also slow down an orchid’s metabolism allowing your orchid to retain and store more of the energy it captured during photosynthesis. If you have a cattleya that grows new pseudobulbs in winter and summer, winters bulbs are usually thicker as a result.
Unfortunately, orchids from very warm, tropical environments, such as phalaenopsis and vandas, may almost cease growth if temperatures remain below 60 F for long periods. Remember that there are exceptions to every rule and hobbyists that have added species to their collections need to consult the orchid literature to determine the natural conditions for a species and do their best to maintain those conditions. While most phals like it warm, >65 F, some of the miniature species and their hybrids, e.g. Phal parishii and lobbii do better with cooler nights.
Cymbidiums are a group that suffers during hot summers, but grow extremely well in winter. They will even thrive outside in the southern part of the country, as long as they are not allowed to freeze. Once spikes are observed, however, move them inside or somewhere where they can be maintained above 50 F to avoid damage to sensitive buds.
Most cattleyas need to be kept on the dry side now. It is OK if there is some shriveling of the bulbs, but the leaves should not shrivel too. A dry period is especially important for cattleya species to ensure quality blooms and to maintain a healthy root system. One common mistake is to substitute misting for watering. Misting can help maintain higher humidity in winter, when low humidity can be a problem, but plants still need a thorough soaking just less frequently. If you do mist, use deionized or distilled water to prevent salt buildup on leaves.
Phalaenopsis and most of the popular intergeneric oncidiums are in bloom this time of year and require more moisture than cattleyas. They too, are growing more slowly and care is required to prevent rotting roots.
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| | Tuesday, December 02, 2008 - December 2008 NCPOS E-Newsletter |
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Your E-NEWSLETTER North Carolina Piedmont Orchid Society has just arrived!
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| Issue #12-02 |
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December 1, 2008
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Dear $(FirstName)
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For Meeting Information and locations, please visit our website.
Quick Links:
www.ncpiedmontorchid.org
info@ncpiedmontorchid.org
Registered members, please visit the website to view the minutes from the previous meeting. Click on the link above, log in at the homepage, then click on the "member info" tab. You will be able to view the minutes on that page.
2009 Membership dues are now being accepted. We want to know what interests you! Please go to the "About Us" Tab at the top of the website, hold your cursor over that tab until the Membership Application pops up. Print the form, fill it out and bring it with you to the next meeting or mail it to Bill Jolly at the address shown on the form. Single memberships are $15. Family memberships are $20.
Linda Thorne of Seagrove Orchids sent a letter thanking those who attended our annual field trip for attending and supporting her business. 14 members attended. We had lots of fun and bought some great plants at a discount!
Jeremy Losaw of the NCPOS has designed an orchid-related website where members can interact with other orchidists worldwide, posts pictures, and ask and answer questions. Visit this cool website at http://orchiditis.ning.com.
COMING SPEAKERS: January: Courtney Hackney, speaking on classic cattleyas.
Feburary: Alan Koch, speaking on mini-catts.
March: Larry Mellichamp, speaking on Orchids of Australia.
If you did not receive an email from Jay last week concerning Show details, we need to add you to our master email list. Please email Jay at jaythefishguy@earthlink.net if you are an NCPOS member and did not receive the email last week. We are making every opportunity to keep you informed and give you the opportunity to become involved.
A supplemental email will be sent out within the next two weeks with more show details. Be sure and look for it.
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Come join us for our annual NCPOS Christmas Party on Sunday, Dec. 7, beginning at noon. PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS WILL TAKE THE PLACE OF OUR MONTHLY MEETING AT UNCC. The society will provide the main course. Members are asked to bring a side dish or dessert.
This year's festivities will be held at Carolina Orchids, hosted by Tom and Shan Nasser.
Carolina Orchids from Charlotte, NC: South on I-77 to exit 90. R on Carowinds Blvd. Go 0.7 miles to stoplight in front of Carowinds roller coasters. Turn left on Pleasant Road.Go 1.4 miles to Carolina Orchids on right (just past entrance to Catawba Village townhouses). If get to Beacon Knoll subdivision on your left, you went 200 feet too far.
Carolina Orchids from Columbia, SC: North on I-77 to exit 88. Turn left on Gold Hill Rd. Go 0.3 miles to 2nd stoplight; turn right on Pleasant Rd. Go 1.4 miles to Carolina Orchids on left (after Beacon Knoll subdiv.on right.)
Carolina Orchids from Greenville, SC: North on I-85 toward Charlotte. Exit on I-485 (toward Columbia)then I-77S. At I-77 Exit 90 turn right on Carowinds Blvd. & follow above instructions to us from Charlotte, NC.
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Growing Tips for December
By
Courtney T. Hackney
Dept. Biology
Univ. North Florida
Email: Hackneau@comcast.net
Orchids are viewed by the public and many new hobbyists as very exotic plants; difficult to grow. There are certainly many orchid species that fit that category. However, most orchids given as gifts designed for the mass market are very easy to grow if one remembers the “KISS” principle. This axiom (keep it simple stupid) works well for those of us that like to think that we have advanced beyond beginner status too. The following is my list of orchid growing rules that follow the “KISS” principle. Pass this list on to friends who receive an orchid gift this season.
1. Water only when dry. Even if you under water, your orchid will not die. Over-watering kills roots, degrades the potting medium and attracts insects. All of these problems are difficult to reverse even for experts. Under-water your orchid, and one simply needs to water more frequently and your orchid will grow and flower.
2. Under-fertilize or don’t fertilize. Every orchid growing manual recommends a particular nutrient formula or brand. Newly purchased orchids usually come in a medium loaded with nutrients (fertilizer). Many new orchid growers purchase “orchid” fertilizer with their plant and feel obligated to use it regularly. Few orchids die from being under-fertilized, but many die from too much fertilizer. Over fertilizing is the second leading cause of death of orchids, often accelerated when the orchid starts to show signs of stress from over-watering.
3. Repotting. As soon as an orchid begins to look stressed many growers decide to repot. If over-watering and over-fertilizing have not killed your orchid, this will usually finish the job. Repotting can save an orchid if the first two rules have been violated, i.e. roots are dead, and the medium shot. Rarely, however, is this effort successful once this stage is reached. There is a greater chance of success if the mistreated orchid and its medium is carefully transferred to a clay pot of the same size and allowed to dry thoroughly. Most orchids come in a plastic pot, often poorly drained, and sometimes have no drainage at all.
4. Use the water you have! Buying mineral water or distilled water may make you feel better, but it generally offers no better chance of survival for your orchid than water from the tap. Some folks have even installed water softeners for their orchids; a sure-fire death warrant. Good water quality is extremely important, but not critical for most orchids. Thoroughly soak your orchid at least once a month. This can involve setting your orchid in a sink full of water for 15 minutes or so or allowing water to run through the pot for awhile. This removes any salts, including excess fertilizer. Use water at about the same temperature as the air.
5. Humidity Many beginners insist of misting their plants constantly to maintain a proper humidity and provide water. Often this seems necessary because some aspect of rules 1-4 above have been violated and the orchid appears to be wilting or suddenly drops all of its flowers and buds. If humidity is kept at the ideal for people, 50-60%, your orchids will lose water at an appropriate rate. Consider the location of your orchid and if you would be uncomfortable there, so would your orchid.
6. Light Orchid books spend lots of time describing the ideal light environment. All plants need light to grow. However, orchids can adapt to a variety of light conditions and grow and flower there. They cannot grow in the dark. Orchids in windowsills often experience bright light for short periods of time and then low light levels for the rest of the day. As long as leaves do not become hot to the touch, this setting is appropriate as long as one does not violate rules 1-5 above.
NCPOS Show Update
Things are coming along in preparation for our orchid show, held January 9-11, 2009 at Daniel Stowe Botanical Garden. The host schedule is full. Thanks for all those who signed up to host. We still need judging clerks for Friday morning, Jan. 9. It should be lots of fun! We also need help on Thursday, both to help the exhibitors unload and to install the NCPOS exhibit, as well as Sunday afternoon/evening, to help remove the exhibits and clean the exhibit area. Please refer to the email that Jay Sifford sent last week for details on these opportunities to become involved.
We have a big need for quality plants to use in our NCPOS exhibit.
If you can help with any of the above-mentioned needs, please email Jay at jaythefishguy@earthlink.net. Thanks in advance for your help in making our first show at our new venue a success!
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